This one is good with its strong contrast and the leading double lines on the road
This one is good with its strong contrast and the leading double lines on the road
A cool shot !
Very well done !
Very pretty, lovely costumes and poses too !
The LED's on the costumes are very creative
These are my favouritres
You saved the best until last :-)
I totally agree, just shooting B&W in JPG would be completely throwing away the option to switch it back to colour at a later stage or try different filtration and so on.
What I'm doing here is setting the camera to B&W when composing and taking the shot, but shooting in raw+JPG, that way I get a B&W jpg plus a full colour raw file. I'd prefer to just shoot in raw, but Fuji cameras just use the low res JPG embedded in the raw file for playback which is near useless for checking focus on, but if there's a JPG available as well, it will use that instead.
So, with this setup, all the colour information is still present in the raw file, but it's tagged as being in the B&W profile. Capture One respects the film sim settings on import, so it comes through into the editor in B&W if shot that way, but as it's really a colour image I can just change film sim in C1 to get the colours back.
I'd imagine most other mirrorless cameras will work this way, although I haven't tried doing the same thing with any of the others I own just yet. It's worth a go though, I've found it quite an interesting experience.
@Fireplace33 has written: @SteveMonks has written:Rivington Pike: A Black and White Night
I've always thought that using the B&W setting directly on the camera and capturing in B&W would be a disadvantage because if the colour info is lost, you don't get the opportunity in post to modify the grey tones based on their colour. In post it's like having a set of coloured filters available, perhaps even different ones for specific parts of the image. That's sort of analogous to how you lose out when shooting only jpg and not RAW.
Maybe I should try sometime setting the camera to B&W to "look for good B&W scenes" in the viewfinder, then shoot them in colour and convert them in post to get the best of both ideas?
I totally agree, just shooting B&W in JPG would be completely throwing away the option to switch it back to colour at a later stage or try different filtration and so on.
What I'm doing here is setting the camera to B&W when composing and taking the shot, but shooting in raw+JPG, that way I get a B&W jpg plus a full colour raw file. I'd prefer to just shoot in raw, but Fuji cameras just use the low res JPG embedded in the raw file for playback which is near useless for checking focus on, but if there's a JPG available as well, it will use that instead.
So, with this setup, all the colour information is still present in the raw file, but it's tagged as being in the B&W profile. Capture One respects the film sim settings on import, so it comes through into the editor in B&W if shot that way, but as it's really a colour image I can just change film sim in C1 to get the colours back.
I'd imagine most other mirrorless cameras will work this way, although I haven't tried doing the same thing with any of the others I own just yet. It's worth a go though, I've found it quite an interesting experience.
Thanks Steve :-)
... that makes a lot of sense. I just tried it on my Z7 and works very nicely with that camera too. I put the "picture control" on to "MY MENU" so I can change quickly between monochrome or back again to normal.
As suggested, I chose RAW + JPG and I get the full colour RAW that displays as a B&W photo until I start to edit it, when the full colours become visible. The JPG is of course a hard baked B&W version of the same. I can also set to just RAW if I want to.
So that's something new for me to try on a next trip :-)
@Vahur has written: @SteveMonks has written:Rivington Pike: A Black and White Night
Well, more of an evening really, but that didn't make such a good title.
As I've been suffering with my back quite a bit of late, I decided I needed a more lightweight kit for longer walks and as I had no issues with the IQ of the X-H2 and still had all of my Fuji lenses, the recently released X-T50 seemed like a perfect fit. I'm not ditching the bigger cameras, I love the results from them, but for days when I'm feeling a bit weary or my back is giving me grief, this will be the kit to reach for, at least in nice weather, given the lack of weather resistance.
Like most other internet commentators, I thought the film simulation dial was a pointless gimmick and would have preferred an ISO dial, but having it sat there encourages you to play with the film simulations a bit more and I found myself quite enjoying shooting in black and white, specifically Acros with the red filter to really punch up the blue skies, which is how I ended up with this all black and white set (there were various colour images too, but these are what I preferred).
They are all derived from raw images, so the colour is there if needed, but I liked the look of these as shot in B&W, given the live view at the time of shooting was also B&W I think it helped me to see the play of light and shade better than I would have been able to shooting in colour and then converting later, something I couldn't even do back in the film days of the 80s when I shot B&W out of necessity so that I could process and print them myself at home.
General thoughts on the camera, I like it. It's tiny, taking me back to micro four thirds days. The viewfinder is pretty good and the control layout matches my GFX pretty well, except for the lack of a dedicated ISO button (re-definable options are available) and the playback button is in the wrong place (top left rather than bottom right for one handed use). The only other complaint I have is the clickable thumbwheels feel very flimsy, but time will tell to see how they hold up.
All images taken with the Fuji X-T50 (although the EXIF will say X-T5 because I had to hack the raw files with EXIFTool so that my version of Capture One Pro could read them) and number of prime lenses, mostly the 23 f/1.4, but I think the 35 f/1.4 and 56 f/1.2 are in the mix too. I've subsequently bought a Sigma 18-50 f/2.8 giving me a tiny 24-70ish zoom kit which I took out on Thursday for the Summer Solstice, more pictures to follow with that.
IMO it's hard to shoot foliage in BW as colour information is lost and often all the details is gone with colours. But in these shots the foliage makes nice frame to those impressive structures without getting too much attention so I think BW suits very well.
Although I've shot quite a lot of B&W film in the dim and distant past, this was the first time I'd shot a digital camera set to B&W so that I'm composing through a viewfinder in B&W, which is something I'd never thought to do before, but I think it actually helps to see what will and wont work in B&W. After an hour or two of this, I definitely felt like I was looking for compositions a little differently to how I normally would.
Here's a couple of tree images I shot later in the week. Both of these were composed and shot in B&W and I think they work much better than the colour conversions I've added for comparison, reminding me of scenes from the old Universal gothic horror films of the 1930's, such as James Whale's Frankenstein. With the colour reinstated, I think they lose a lot of their atmosphere and menacing tone.
I agree that in these examples BW works better, as it turns leaves into uniform background and allows to concentrate on shape of trunk and branches. With colour version green leaves appear brighter and catch attention instead of being background.