According to P2P, some cameras apply mandatory NR at base ISO (Canon R5) or throughout most of the ISO range (Pentax K3 III). The NR in those cameras does not bother me. Before deciding to avoid higher ISO ranges because of NR, you should decide whether it bothers you.
April 28, 2023
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A useful test shot? ;)
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Ah, yes. I've been using MILCs too long.
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With DSLRs, I would use LiveView for a test shot on a tripod.
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That's because you don't use polaroid backs ;)
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I just threw away an 8x10 Polaroid processor. Those were the bad old days.
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I avoided using polaroids for test shots as much as I could. It was too expensive in USSR :)
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8x10 Polaroids were expensive in the States, too. Ten bucks a shot, as I remember from the early 90s.
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3x in USSR in 70s-80s, and that is if you are lucky.
I mean, when it comes to test shots with digital cameras, many things may work well. Most of the times when using a tripod I also use a small notebook (Linux or macOS) and the shots go there and into RawDigger. Camera is set to base ISO. -
Perhaps they only filter raw levels so close to black that you are not likely to see it in a typical exposure. A real-world, high-DR scene usually has sufficient global flare and nothing in the scene is black enough to record near raw black. When you use the shadows for exposure latitude of a low-DR scene and "under-expose" it grossly, then darker tones do approach raw "black" and you might see the filtering more there.
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In my experience with Nikon, Sony, and Fuji cameras, they are not that smart.
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My Ricoh GRiii has a custom setting called "One Push AE in M Mode".
It can be assigned to any one of several buttons on the camera and then when in manual mode you press the button and it automatically adjusts either the aperture, the shutter speed, or both (depending on another custom setting).
So then even in manual mode you only need one button to get a proper EV. This makes manual mode so much faster...
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Another way around it would be to save a couple of different setups to your C1, C2 modes.
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Of course. But that only works if a large aperture lens is available for the format. There's not any 12-35 or 35-100 f1.4 zooms for m4/3 like there are 2.8 zooms in 135 format, so I use primes, and change lenses. Of late I've done something I swore I'd never do, and that's carry 2 bodies. I bought 2 G100's for screaming good prices ($500 Au brand spanking new) so I'm giving that a spin at the moment.
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Here's my 135 format 2.8 equivalent wandering about kit. If there's going to be plenty of room, I'll throw in my Siggy 56 1.4. If I'm concerned about weight, I'll leave one body at home. If I want less lens changing with a single body, I'll chuck in my 12-35 f2.8 mkII, and my PL9mm. And live with the slower aperture. If I want significantly better low light performance, I'll have to go to f0.95 primes in m4/3, or f1.4-f2 primes in 135 format. Both of which will give shallower DOF. It's nice to have options, I shoot what i enjoy shooting with.
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The G100's actually do better than I ever thought they would, even with moving subjects and a cheap zoom. In good light
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Yes, that would be nice.
On my 90D I have the minimum shutter speed menu item copied to the first page of my custom menus so it is very quick and easy to access but but not as quick as a direct control on the back of the camera.
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The same advantage as when hand-holding. On a tripod, after setting aperture and shutter speed for dof and blur I meter the scene and let the camera set ISO. I then have the option to lock in that ISO, or any other value, or leave ISO on Auto depending on what I am doing.
Sometimes I will have the camera mounted on a tripod aimed at a particular scene and take photos at any time over a few hours. The lighting might change a bit over that time, especially when outdoors, so Auto ISO works well for me in that case since the aperture and shutter speed remain constant.
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IMO, general in-camera metering is one of the worst ways to control the highlight levels. The histogram and zebras are better, especially if you've taken care with your JPEG settings. You could argue for placing diffuse highlights on Zone VII or Zone IX, but that's more complicated and slower than just looking at the histogram and the zebras.
