Your Canon Photos No. 27: 5th to 11th November 2023

This weekly thread is principally intended for you to show others the photos made with Canon cameras of all sorts: SLR, DSLR, Mirrorless, M-series, APS-C, film, etc. BUT all brands of camera will be accepted, including photos taken with your phone. We do enjoy reading an accompanying text explaining your photo and any special techniques you may have used. Comments and helpful criticisms on others' photos are also welcome: we can all learn something from each other. We look forward to seeing your photos.

New contributors to this series of threads are always welcome!

A new thread for the following week will be posted next Saturday around 10 pm UK time.

Digirame and I will be active here and are sharing the hosting, but we are used to all joining in and commenting on others' photos.

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Last week's subject material was very varied and enjoyable. We seem to be the largest group here with cameras made by one manufacturer. Has it really been six months since the first thread of this series?

Clocks go back this weekend in the USA.

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Mocha started us off with beautiful autumnal scenes and animals, including a Red Admiral butterfly -- all excellently photgraphed.

Fotoworld's South African photos were full of exotica, beautifully captured. I particularly enjoyed the zenras and the Lilac Breasted Roller, who looked like he had dressed specially for a fancy dress competition!

Fotoworld's Halloween photos were evocative: Digirame's were both spookey and amusing...

Simplejoy continues to entertain with his imagniative macros.

Photobygms showed us fall colours from a Dutch perspective.

Steve T was also in autumnal mode. His interesting shots would have benefitted from being larger! His "travelling man" is a new and interesting departure.

I would also have liked to see Dunlin's photos larger. The squirrel was much easier to see when enlarged.

Digi inadvertently opened up a discussion about the limits of street photography. I am still trying to figure out how he processed the image in Portland.

Your comments and interactions raised all this above the level of "photos on the wall". Many thanks to you all for building the community in this way.

David

David,

The way I post processed the image last week of the couple in Portland, Oregon was to use the free software IrfanView. While in IrfanView, push CTRL+E to get to the effects browser. Then choose metallic. That changes a photograph to a "metallic drawing".

Subject: McMinnville Air Show

At the end of September I was at an air show in McMinnville, Oregon. The spectators were on the (wrong) north side of where the planes were performing, so there were some issues with the lighting. But I was able to work around those issues to produce these photos. At such events like this, I also wanted to show you all something other than just planes flying to give you all a more complete experience. I hope you like this series.

Because the latest IrvanView version 4.62 that I downloaded recently had the EXIF data shown differently, I had to modify my computer programming code. It works most of the time (but not all of the time), so I have to say that it's still in the testing phase of development. But this is what I successfully got today:

Photo No. 1 - First we will look at the static displays. People were permitted to climb into this cockpit.

Model - Canon EOS Rebel T7i
ExposureTime - 1/640 seconds
FNumber - 9
ISOSpeedRatings - 250
ExposureBiasValue - 0
FocalLength - 72 mm
Lens Model - EF-S18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM

Photo No. 2 - There were some neat looking planes.

Model - Canon EOS Rebel T7i
ExposureTime - 1/800 seconds
FNumber - 9
ISOSpeedRatings - 200
ExposureBiasValue - 0
FocalLength - 18 mm
Lens Model - EF-S18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM

Photo No. 3 - Again....

Model - Canon EOS Rebel T7i
ExposureTime - 1/640 seconds
FNumber - 9
ISOSpeedRatings - 320
ExposureBiasValue - -0.33
FocalLength - 18 mm
Lens Model - EF-S18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM

Photo No. 4 - What I liked about this photo, is that I captured the person taking a picture of the plane with his white telephoto lens.

Model - Canon EOS Rebel T7i
ExposureTime - 1/640 seconds
FNumber - 9
ISOSpeedRatings - 250
ExposureBiasValue - 0
FocalLength - 18 mm
Lens Model - EF-S18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM

Photo No. 5 - In this photo, I wanted to show you all how crowded it was at this event. I was impressed at how many people were there to watch these planes.

Model - Canon EOS Rebel T7i
ExposureTime - 1/640 seconds
FNumber - 9
ISOSpeedRatings - 250
ExposureBiasValue - 0
FocalLength - 18 mm
Lens Model - EF-S18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM

Photo No. 6 - We see one of the most popular types of cameras (that is, the cell phone). I hope he was able to zoom out a little.

Model - Canon EOS Rebel T7i
ExposureTime - 1/640 seconds
FNumber - 9
ISOSpeedRatings - 320
ExposureBiasValue - 0
FocalLength - 19 mm
Lens Model - EF-S18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM

Photo No. 7 - Now I begin to show these small planes.

Model - Canon EOS Rebel T7i
ExposureTime - 1/640 seconds
FNumber - 9
ISOSpeedRatings - 100
ExposureBiasValue - 0
FocalLength - 27 mm
Lens Model - EF-S18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM

Photo No. 8 - Again....

Model - Canon EOS Rebel T7i
ExposureTime - 1/1600 seconds
FNumber - 9
ISOSpeedRatings - 125
ExposureBiasValue - 0
FocalLength - 229 mm
Lens Model - EF-S55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS STM

Photo No. 9 - Again....

Model - Canon EOS Rebel T7i
ExposureTime - 1/1600 seconds
FNumber - 9
ISOSpeedRatings - 125
ExposureBiasValue - 0
FocalLength - 172 mm
Lens Model - EF-S55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS STM

Photo No. 10 - And again....

Model - Canon EOS Rebel T7i
ExposureTime - 1/1600 seconds
FNumber - 9
ISOSpeedRatings - 250
ExposureBiasValue - 0.33
FocalLength - 157 mm
Lens Model - EF-S55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS STM

Photo No. 11 - Now here's the Blue Angels.

Model - Canon EOS 800D
ExposureTime - 1/2000 seconds
FNumber - 9
ISOSpeedRatings - 500
ExposureBiasValue - 0.33
FocalLength - 350 mm
Lens Model - TAMRON SP 150-600mm F/5-6.3 Di VC USD A011

Photo No. 12 - Again....

Model - Canon EOS 800D
ExposureTime - 1/2000 seconds
FNumber - 9
ISOSpeedRatings - 800
ExposureBiasValue - 0.33
FocalLength - 450 mm
Lens Model - TAMRON SP 150-600mm F/5-6.3 Di VC USD A011

Photo No. 13 - Again....

Model - Canon EOS 800D
ExposureTime - 1/2500 seconds
FNumber - 9
ISOSpeedRatings - 1000
ExposureBiasValue - 0.33
FocalLength - 483 mm
Lens Model - TAMRON SP 150-600mm F/5-6.3 Di VC USD A011

Photo No. 14 - Again....

Model - Canon EOS 800D
ExposureTime - 1/2500 seconds
FNumber - 9
ISOSpeedRatings - 1000
ExposureBiasValue - 0.33
FocalLength - 600 mm
Lens Model - TAMRON SP 150-600mm F/5-6.3 Di VC USD A011

Photo No. 15 - Again....

Model - Canon EOS 800D
ExposureTime - 1/2500 seconds
FNumber - 9
ISOSpeedRatings - 1250
ExposureBiasValue - 0.33
FocalLength - 600 mm
Lens Model - TAMRON SP 150-600mm F/5-6.3 Di VC USD A011

Photo No. 16 - And finally one more. This time I'll show you all the issue with the lighting.

Model - Canon EOS 800D
ExposureTime - 1/2500 seconds
FNumber - 9
ISOSpeedRatings - 320
ExposureBiasValue - 0.33
FocalLength - 226 mm
Lens Model - TAMRON SP 150-600mm F/5-6.3 Di VC USD A011

Hi Dig
Great mobile and interesting static images.
The jets are amazing. The colours of the planes on the ground are beautifully rendered.
I enjoyed your comment on the use of the most popular cameras. While doing the safaris, of the 9 people in the vehicle, at least 7 were using mobiles as their main camera. Still, everyone seemed happy just to be there.

Cheers
Paul

I have been trying to learn Long Exposure Black and White, and I've been struggling.

I bought a 10 stop ND filter, and using exposure calculator apps, set the recommended shutter speed.

My resulting pictures were turning out completely overexposed and blown out.

For example, in this first photo, it was a completely sunny day with blue skies. At 100 ISO and an aperture of f/7.1, the camera zeroed out the exposure at 1/500th of a second shutter speed.

Okay, so far so good.

Using three different exposure calculators, when using the same ISO and aperture and a 10 stop ND, they all recommended setting a shutter speed of 2 seconds. The result was a whited out mess.

Doing this freehand, I kept increasing the shutter speed step by step until I arrived at a shutter speed that more or less resembled my original photo. I came up with a shutter speed of .5, or 1/2 of a second.

This is 2 full stops up from 2 seconds to 1/2 of a second.

This is photo# 2. Please overlook the blurriness. I was mainly concerned with the exposure and was shooting hand-held.

I sat down and thought about this, and asked myself, what stop filter would require that I use a shutter speed two stops faster than what the calculators were recommending?

I tried the exposure pretending that I had an 8 stop filter and voila! The recommendation was 1/2 of a second.

I had purchased a Tiffen filter because I didn't have the money to buy higher-priced ones, and I'm just passing this along in case someone else might have the same problem with overexposures using the recommendations in the exposure calculation apps that are out there.

Steve Thomas

Paul,

Thanks. Yes, for some people I have found that cell phone cameras are all they want to use.

Steve,

What's the purpose of you using long exposure and the ND filter? What to you expect to achieve by that? Is there a waterfall that you want to photograph with the ND filter?

I hope someone could help you. That's something I do not do. But I do know this: If you want to do a long exposure without a tripod you could set the camera down on something flat and use a timer. The timer should reduce camera shake. Why do you want to do black & white? I found I can change to B&W with software. My "metallic drawing" was an example of that, that I showed in last week's thread.

Dig,

No. I don't have any waterfalls, but there are other things you can with long exposure, like with moving clouds and flattening out bodies of water. Even static subjects can take on an other-worldly look.

I won't go into the philosophy of it all - they say different strokes for different folks, but I find long- exposed black and white photographs have an ethereal quality that stirs my soul.

You can use software to convert a color photo to black and white, or even set your camera to Monochrome, but extending the shutter speed gives that photo a dreamy look. Do a Google search for Long Exposure Black and White, and look at some images from people who know what they are doing, and you'll see what I mean.

PS: I"ve said this before, you take really good photographs with that T7i and the 18-135mm lens.

Steve Thomas

Steve,

I like long exposures for night time photos. I haven't done that in a while. Some people like to show the car headlights like streams of light.

Hi Digirame,

Super set, I love the trails the old planes were making and the blue angels seem to be flying so close together in pic. 11 😱

Hi all,

Local walks in my area.

The river Goyt. (Aperture f/5.6 <> (SS): 1/160 <> ISO 100 <> EC: 0 <> PASM Mode: Aperture Priority <> Metering: Evaluative <> Focus Mode: One Shot <> FL: 84mm <> Lens: Tamron SP 70-300mm f/4-5.6 Di VC USD <> Camera ID: Canon EOS 7D Mark II).

Great creasted Grebe, unusual to see these in my area. (Aperture f/7.1 <> (SS): 1/500 <> ISO 250 <> EC: 0 <> PASM Mode: Custom <> Metering: Partial <> Focus Mode: AI Servo <> FL: 300mm <> Lens: Tamron SP 70-300mm f/4-5.6 Di VC USD <> Camera ID: Canon EOS 7D Mark II).

Keep finding the Fungi. (Aperture f/7.1 <> (SS): 1/500 <> ISO 5000 <> EC: 0 <> PASM Mode: Custom <> Metering: Partial <> Focus Mode: AI Servo <> FL: 375mm <> Lens: Tamron SP 150-600mm f/5-6.3 Di VC USD <> Camera ID: Canon EOS 7D Mark II).

A lonely Male Mandarin along the river bank. (Aperture f/7.1 <> (SS): 1/500 <> ISO 8000 <> EC: 0 <> PASM Mode: Custom <> Metering: Partial <> Focus Mode: AI Servo <> FL: 400mm <> Lens: Tamron SP 150-600mm f/5-6.3 Di VC USD <> Camera ID: Canon EOS 7D Mark II).

.... and because last night was Bonfire Night we've got a Firework display. (Aperture f/4 <> (SS): 1/30 <> ISO 6400 <> EC: 0 <> PASM Mode: Aperture Priority <> Metering: Evaluative <> Focus Mode: AI Servo <> FL: 70mm <> Lens: Tamron SP 70-300mm f/4-5.6 Di VC USD <> Camera ID: Canon EOS 70D).

(Aperture f/4 <> (SS): 1/60 <> ISO 6400 <> EC: 0 <> PASM Mode: Aperture Priority <> Metering: Evaluative <> Focus Mode: AI Servo <> FL: 70mm <> Lens: Tamron SP 70-300mm f/4-5.6 Di VC USD <> Camera ID: Canon EOS 70D).

Hi Mocha
Love the grebe and the Mandarin duck.
Cheers
Paul

Mocha,

Thanks. I had fun using all three cameras and lenses.

Mocha,

Of course you will forever make me "jealous" of your Mandarin photos. 😀 We have some Mandarin ducks in the US, but they are rare in Oregon. The Grebe looks super with the gray, white and blue background. Why did you not use the Tamron 150-600mm lens for the Grebe? Did you just not have it on your camera and used what you had at the time? The fungi stands out nicely with the green. Wow...great photos of the firework display.

Subject: Beautiful bouquet of flowers

I saw these flowers at a nursery last month. They were just so beautiful. I hope you like them too.

Model - Canon EOS Rebel T7i
ExposureTime - 1/400 seconds
FNumber - 11
ISOSpeedRatings - 2500
ExposureBiasValue - 0.33
FocalLength - 60 mm
Lens Model - EF-S55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS STM

I've not taken many photos recently, as the sun has mainly been obscured by clouds. But this morning I slipped my little Sony in my pocket.

Firstly, two remaining roses in the garden (yard) behind our house:

Then the bane of our life! All summer the streets of Vienna have been under roadworks. This is a major road into town. As you can see, it has been closed since July 4th. Originally the work was to finish on 30th October, but that date has been covered by sticky tape.

Work continues at a snail's pace. It is not clear what the aim is, but it appears that the road will be narrowed and parking space removed to make wider cycle paths.

Here are the two men who seem to be at work:

I hope this brightens your day!

David

I like these a lot, Mocha, particularly the birds and the funghi.

David

Steve,

Your ND filter experiments seem to be making good progress. I would not bother with a calculator. Given that "film" is free, I would work out the settings by trial and error, as I do with my manual lenses. Set the exposure time and the aperture, and then adjust the ISO value. (Do you have a histogram on screen when you are taking the shot?)

David